JHS pedal repair – Sweet Tea V2

JHS pedal repair

This is a JHS pedal repair for a good friend and guitarist who now works in London. It’s a two pedal overdrive. Its a Sweet Tea V2 – sounds great!

The pedal had been damaged by the use of the wrong power supply. It was a fairly simple repair to complete. No schematics are available for JHS pedal repairs, but there’s not much new under the sun in distortion pedals. The only funny thing about this one is that they have a top copper pour for V+ and a bottom copper pour for GND. It’s normal to pour GND only so that had me confused for a few minutes.

If you need a JHS pedal repair, please get in touch.

Ashdown 550 Touring Repair

Ashdown 550 Touring Repair

The first task for last week was an Ashdown 550 Touring Repair, brought in from a Newark customer bec because the amp wasn’t making any sound – actually it was making a very weak tinny sound. I like ‘no output’ or low output repairs – they’re often easy to fix. Fortunately this was the case here.

The problem turned out to be a faulty speaker connection. The touring 550 has two 10″ LF drivers and a little HF driver. There was a loose connection in one of the LF drivers – I suspect from the way that wire broke that it had been badly wired in the factory. The weak, tinny sound was the tweeter operating on its own. I re-soldered this connection and added some heatshrink to support the connection. And the amp was working!
Ashdown 550 Touring Repair
It was obvious from the external state of the amp that it had been kept in a damp environment – the tolex and top wood layers had swollen around the screw joints and the fixings were horribly rusted. The owner had bought this amp in the faulty state, so I then proceeded to give the amp a 1 hour service to check for any further sonic gremlins.

The amp uses two preamp valves – 12AX7s. These were unbranded valves but tested fine on my valve tester.

I discovered that the master volume pot was quite badly oxidised, but cleaned up nicely with a bit of Caig DeOxit D5. The gain pot had similar problems. I also cleaned the sockets and the valve bases as a precaution.

Checking the output level into 6.8 ohms the amp produced >288W. This is about right for a 550W amp rated into 4 ohms, which would produce a proportionately larger signal, allowing for transformer sag.
 Ashdown 550 Touring Repair
If you have an Ashdown 550 Touring Repair, please get in touch.

Hughes and Kettner Tubemeister repair

I’ve wanted to do a tubemeister repair since they first came out a few years back. I guess it’s a testament to general quality that this is the first to appear on the bench. I’m a big fan of the design aesthetic. 3 channels and a midi switching amp for £550ish is a lot of bang for your buck.

However, the owner was more worried about a different kind of bang – and a flash behind V1 when he flicked the standby switch. Afterwards the amp wasn’t making any sound at all.

Hughes and Kettner service manuals are easily the most detailed of any of the modern manufacturers I’ve seen (honourable mention goes to Roland/Boss) but this wasn’t needed to disassemble the chassis and get back to the PCB. The chassis is all metal which reduces weight and size. There’s a bent metal lid, removable end pieces and a separate metal base.

Hughes and Kettner have a power tube management system called TSC. This checks tube balance and bias. Orange amps have a similar system (see orange amp repair). The Hughes and Kettner TSC can occasionally fail and show up an error code on the TSC lights. The parts must then be replaced with these parts. But that wasn’t necessary here.

I discovered that the HT fuse had blown, which accounts for the bang the player heard. The valves all tested good, but since the TSC turns on the power tubes using a FET in the cathode I strongly suspected the power valves. After replacing the valves and the fuse the amp came back to life!

If you have Hughes and Kettner tubemeister repair, please just drop me a message and I’ll get you up and running again.